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Moar overclock..


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#21 wondergod

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Posted 17 October 2010 - 03:22 PM

With that pump you should be ok, plus the controlled ones are a waste. The res doesn't really matter much in fact its not really even needed. What is more important is what water block and radiator are you planning on using? The XSPC RX series radiators have been rated well for the past few years and aren't that pricey. Keep in mind they are thicker than average radiators though. You can get by with a 120 rad with a good fan, but if you really want to see a difference get at least a 240. That way you can get controllable fans and set them on low when noise is an issue.

Water blocks for an 1156 are pretty easy there are quite a few that you can choose from since 1156 chips are easy to cool.

These are a few that will do well(make sure you get 1156 versions):

EK Supreme HF
XSPC Rasa
Swiftech Apogee XT
Koolance 360(decent cooler even though its Krapance)
and my personal preference Heatkiller 3.0

Here is a good round up of a few blocks


Edit: What case do you have by the way?
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#22 Scroll_Lock88

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Posted 17 October 2010 - 07:31 PM

His case is a cooler master stacker if memory serves
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#23 Bumblebee

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Posted 18 October 2010 - 09:42 AM

I have the Coolermaster Cosmos S, it is designed to have a 3 X 120mm radiatior or more on it. I check out all those water blocks and i did research on all of um and went with the krapance cpu-360. Reason was on all i could find when it came to tests it beat out quite a few waterblocks including swiftech and other good blocks, plus its already set up for the 1136 sockets. I am glad i didnt get a pump with speed control too, that ment i would have had to bought a speed controller and more money wasted. Still waiting for everything to get here but my only concern is finding a good spot for the pump, what sucks too is i gota take the damn motherboard out to put a back plate on... meh :P
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#24 Scroll_Lock88

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Posted 18 October 2010 - 12:20 PM

I was close! It was a coolermaster thats all I remembered :P
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#25 Bumblebee

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Posted 18 October 2010 - 03:02 PM

Best case ive ever had so far, i was looking at lian li but i said screw that due to prices, this cosmos s has been awesome, huge though lol :P
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#26 wondergod

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Posted 18 October 2010 - 11:42 PM

I have a cosmos s also, be careful of the rad some don't fit up top unless you do some dremelling. Also you may lose your top drive bay. I currently have a 360 up top and a 240 on the bottom(modded an opening) I also have an XSPC Dual pump radiator in two 5.25 bays. Its a wonderful case, a lil on the heavy side, but looks slick when painted right :)

My suggestion to you since this is your first endeavor is, do not rush it, plan on it taking a week of no pc time. Its better to take forever and test things for 24 hours, then to brick your pc because you rush it. After you get one or two systems under your belt then you can cut corners :)
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#27 Bumblebee

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Posted 19 October 2010 - 09:10 AM

LOL soo funny you said that, yes i did some dremeling myself for the h50 i got now with the push pull setup (dremel is a must have). I plan on puting the entire loop together out side of the case and then leak test it for a day, what i can do since i dont have alot of stuff in the bays is to slide the whole thing in from the front as one piece so i dont have to worry about taking anything apart. And yes, with all that crap inside of it, it weighs a ton.
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#28 wondergod

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Posted 19 October 2010 - 07:25 PM

you could assemble the loop outside but i think that ends up being a lot more work than you can imagine. I'd assemble inside and just make sure the motherboard isn't powered and you are using distilled water. You can do this by jump starting the power supply with paperclip(look it up online)

I can assure you spilling distilled water won't damage any components that aren't powered as long as you give it a day or two to dry.

Here was a pic when I did mine(disregard the dog he is a camera hog), paper towels or shop rags are key :)

Posted Image
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#29 (NamEless)

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Posted 19 October 2010 - 07:41 PM

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@ lvl 32 the evolved form of that Dog.^^^^

Edited by (NamEless), 19 October 2010 - 07:44 PM.

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#30 Scroll_Lock88

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Posted 19 October 2010 - 09:37 PM

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#31 Bumblebee

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Posted 20 October 2010 - 01:16 PM

First off... lmao..

Thing is, its only cooling for the cpu, so no gpu loops. It wont be too hard to get in and out of the front or side of the case. Just gota make sure the tubing is of proper length for each component.
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#32 Bumblebee

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Posted 20 October 2010 - 06:40 PM

Well got everything finaly, funny thing was i didnt order enough clamps cause im an idoit.. so yay for lowes. (didnt get the compression stuff) Leak testing it right nowand so far so good, gonna let it sit for a while while i game for a bit, prob till tomorrow. That D5 laning pump is quiet as hell too, i was surprised!
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#33 wondergod

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Posted 20 October 2010 - 06:54 PM

You should think of a dual loop, this case was a lot of fun to work with, even better than my lian li or danger den torture rack. Ya its really the CPU I'm referring to, for me its easier to have the water block mounted on the motherboard and the motherboard mounted to the case than to try and slide them all together at once.

To each his own I guess. Good Luck :)

And yes that is the reason I got this breed of dog, easy Halloween costumes.
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#34 Bumblebee

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Posted 20 October 2010 - 07:06 PM

Yah i was considereing that, but those 5870's have reallly good air heatsinks, they never get over 50C under max load, oc'ed to the max that the ati utility will alow. I did think about getting a chipset heatsink for that loop but couldnt find anything good for the p55 classified 200 mobo's. Cant wait to see how well this new setup does for the cpu.

Well.. got it all together, took friggen forever. I almost got it perfect but i was a couple cm's short on one hose and its got a wee bend in it, not that much that it is a kink but its acceptable to me. When i turned my pc on the damn thing was idleing at 20C. Once i got everything situated i ran prime 95 for 10 mins or so to get max heat out of the cpu @4.2 ghz. Never broke 60 C. Thats like... 18 degrees better on max load than that h50. Best part, pc is twice as quite :) Ill get some pics tomorrow, im tired as hell from messing with this pc all damn day.

yes a wall of text.. sue me :P

Edited by Bumblebee, 21 October 2010 - 12:06 AM.

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#35 Bumblebee

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Posted 21 October 2010 - 10:44 AM

Here is a pic of the inside, i put the pump on top of the hard drive bay thingy with the resivour on the 2nd to top bay, so far temps are soooo much better than before, also a sh*t load quieter than the last setup i had.

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#36 DarkShadow

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Posted 21 October 2010 - 01:32 PM

not bad, but you should really optimize your wiring in there to get even more airflow.
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#37 Scroll_Lock88

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Posted 21 October 2010 - 01:55 PM

Acouple of zipties goes a long way :D
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#38 Bumblebee

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Posted 21 October 2010 - 03:31 PM

There is a sh*t load of wires and cables for this pc with that crossfire. There are a toooon of wires and zip ties behind the motherboard wall and at the bottom. What sucks is the two cpu power cords (yah its got two 8 pins for oc'ing) are too short to route anywere and the behind the motherboard wall is not wide enought for the black cables you see at the bottom. Those red power wires at the top are zip tied to the the frame of the case out of the way, but with the fans im using the airflow is awesome thus far. Mabey when i get ambitous ill redo it but for now im burned out takin this b*tch apart :P
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#39 wondergod

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Posted 21 October 2010 - 06:06 PM

I have to agree with bumblebee, the one thing that lacks in the Cosmos S is a decent way to route cables. They give you the back side of the motherboard but its only a couple centimeters in width so you are limited by the number of cables you can fit.

The only real way would to make your cables custom length, which is too much trouble IMHO.
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#40 Bumblebee

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Posted 21 October 2010 - 06:09 PM

Thank god i have that hx1000 corsair psu. A normal psu would suuuuuck...
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